Monday, September 1, 2008

Surfing

Eric and I really, really wanted a house near the ocean, and particularly near Dakar's one prime surf spot. We decided we didn't have the time to learn how to surf, (which I tried in Mexico and pretty much stunk at, btw. It would have taken a LOT of time for me to learn to surf.) But we both whitewater kayaked in the US, and so Eric bought a new sea surf wave boat thing, and I brought my old and trusty Zwo from Montana, and here we are, a two-minute walk to the sea with our kayaks. It's fun! Some of the waves are kinda big, but mostly they're just gentle and nice. Today we braved "The Back Row," - the really big waves that are far enough away from the shore so that you wouldn't want to swim home. I was a little scared, but it was okay. We did fine!

To offset my Too Cool image, I wear a BASEBALL CAP under my HELMET. (Baseball cap under the helmet is, so my husband has told me, "a total rec boater move." Nevermind that ocean boaters don't wear helmets. But I need it so that I can attach my NOSEPLUGS to it. Nice!)

Normally we go for 60 to 90 minutes a few times per week, and it's just enough to get some exercise (there's no hiking here) and get some fresh air. I don't have any photos of us actually in the boats, but here's one of us resting.

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Here's a photo of an unusually quiet day at the beach. Normally all the mats are full and there are at least one or two soccer games going on. (Last weekend there was a wrestling match. We watched for a while as the young men rubbed sand all over themselves and then wrestled one-on-one on the beach; they had spectators and a referee, and there was some order to it. It was interesting, but I couldn't understand the rules or how people were winning. Plus, if it were ME wrestling, I'd rub OIL all over myself. Ha ha ha, can't pin me down!)

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As I commence paddling, I have to get myself in my boat on the sand and then wait for a wave to come raise me up a bit as I slide myself into the water. OR, five or so of these little boys (or others like them) will happily "help." They're very cute, although after I'm half floating they usually try to hang onto the stern for a ride. Which never goes very well.

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We've tried to go a few times with Dessi, so that one of us watches her while the other surfs, but that's mostly more trouble than it's worth, and it's actually not very fun to surf by yourself. So now we just go when we have a babysitter. (We take her with us on separate trips just for her, though; she loves the beach. She kicks her arms and legs up and down as she realizes where we're going. She loves crawling in the sand, swimming, and even seems okay with getting saltwater in her face. Maybe in a few years, she can teach me to surf!

1 comment:

Christy said...

I was just commenting to a friend about how I can't wait to put my little guy in surf lessons! Dessi will have to visit California so they can have a surfing date!